Many visitors of Alaska know Whittier as a starting point of a cruise tour through Kenai Fjords National Park and Resurrection Bay. We chose a completely different Whittier itinerary, an adventure that had nothing to do with any cruises or water activities.
Last updated: May 29, 2025
Whittier Itinerary that Doesn’t Include Cruise
Whittier or Seward? For more than two hours I was sitting in front of my laptop, zealously analyzing all pros and cons of having one of these towns as our departure point for Kenai Fjords National Park. Seward won by offering more options and better prices. But the peculiarity of Whittier inspired us to hit the Seward Highway and drive about one hour southeast the day after our cruise.
Without any detailed Whittier itinerary or any precise idea what to expect or do in this little Alaskan town, we left Anchorage early in the morning. One of the most scenic roads we’d ever seen, towering glaciers, roaring waterfalls, native animals at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, and the longest tunnel in North America were about to fill our day.
What to Expect in Whittier
A tiny city lies at the head of Passage Canal. It’s so small that its population hardly exceeds 200 people. Almost all of the locals live in a single building, the Begich Towers. There are no supermarkets or malls, no top-notch hotels or resorts. Even a hospital is nowhere to be found. And this is Whittier or, as the locals call it, the “town under one roof“.
Due to its remote location and ever-changing weather conditions, the city is not easily accessible, especially during the harsh Alaskan winters. Thus, most of the businesses and public services operate from the same building that also houses the majority of the residents of Whittier.
This, however, doesn’t prevent locals or visitors from enjoying the place. On the contrary, enormous mountains on one side and temperamental sea on the other create perfect conditions for outdoor activities to pack in your Whittier itinerary that doesn’t require any cruise tours.
TOP THINGS TO DO IN WHITTIER, ALASKA (NO CRUISE TOURS)
1. Drive through Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel
The only way to get to Whittier is through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. There is no other way around. Although driving through the longest (2.5 miles) highway tunnel in North America sounds enticing, the trip is not without any inconveniences.
The one-lane passage must be shared with vehicles driving in both directions. Thus expect delays. You may spend up to an hour waiting for your turn to enter the narrow tunnel. We arrived at the Anton Anderson Tunnel right when a passenger train was leaving Whittier. The iron horse left soon after, but gray smoke it had released held the traffic for an extra 30 minutes.
Inside, the Whittier Tunnel reminds of a movie set, the one that is used for filming old pictures about Alaska’s gold rush. Its dark walls seem to try to squeeze your car from both sides.
You can’t speed up or go back: a long caravan of cars in front and behind you slows you down. So for approximately seven minutes, all you can do is to go with the flow and pray that none of the vehicles in front of you get flat tires or any other breakdowns. Otherwise, you’ll be stuck in the tunnel for much longer.
2. Stroll along the Whittier Boat Harbor
Like any other coastal Alaskan cities, Whittier has its own boat harbor. With 350 slips for transient and permanent berth holders, the place stays busy all year round.
Two things contribute to the popularity of the Whittier Boat Harbor: the ice-free water and Prince William Sound with its abundant islands, fjords, waterways, glaciers, and rich marine life. You can also count on many opportunities for kayaking, canoeing, and water-skiing in this part of Whittier.
3. Take in Glacier Views from Portage Lake
Portage Lake entices you with the spectacular views of Portage Glacier on your way to Whittier and ultimately becomes another must-visit destination on your itinerary. Driving farther without stopping to admire a long, glaciated valley surrounding the lake with the ice-cold water is out of the question.
Luckily, you don’t need to wonder where to pull over to take part in this visual feast. A big parking lot sits on the southern end of the lake, making it an easy stop right on the outskirts of Whittier.
4. Walk to Horsetail Falls
From the Whittier Tunnel, it takes just a few minutes to get to Horsetail Falls, the first in-town destination on your itinerary. The impressive waterfall is nestled right behind the Begich Towers.
No official parking lot can be found here. Yet an open space in front of the forested area suggests that you can park here. From this temporary car shelter, a dirt trail runs down a small hill only to end abruptly in front of Horsetail Falls, streaming down the mountainside.
The beautiful waterfall cascades from a height of 330 feet and empties into Whittier Creek. The latter itself can claim a separate spot on the one-day Whittier itinerary.
5. Hike the Portage Pass Trail
One of the simplest ways to see Portage Glacier is by hiking along the Portage Pass Trail. This 2-mile path presents very few difficulties, but offers an enormous amount of opportunities to enjoy the dreamy landscapes of Alaska.
Not once, but multiple times, you’ll tread past glacier-scraped stones and slabs. From almost the beginning of the trail, the mesmerizing views of Maynard Mountain and Shakespeare Shoulder greet you from a distance. At the top, Portage Glacier and Portage Lake come into view, signaling the triumphant completion of the Portage Pass Trail hike.
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